Classic and Veteran Car Price and Valuation Guide

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USING THE CAR VALUE CHART

The Value Charts represent a guide to the prices being paid for classic and collectible vehicles in the Australian market but cannot make allowances for a range of variables including distance travelled, modifications, location or even color. In most instances, the values quoted reflect prices being achieved by privately-sold cars. The exceptions are cars sold at auction - which will normally sell for less - and the Japanese imports which are normally sold through licensed motor dealers.

Cars bought through dealers will normally be more expensive than private purchases because the dealer needs to acquire, prepare and display a range of vehicles for the convenience of buyers and comply with statutory requirements that don't apply to private vendors. The consumer protection available when buying through a dealer is particularly important when considering a low-volume Japanese import.

These cars are expensive to repair when problems occur and rarely come with any kind of service history. Careful reading of the Condition Category descriptions is vital to effective use of the Guide. Whether you are buying or selling, the essential ingredient to accurately pricing a car is objectivity. Buyers who fail to look past the shiny paint or vendors who describe cars as what they are not risk a disappointing exposure to the classic vehicle experience.

Another area of concern is the overuse of ‘concourse’ as a descriptive adjective. Please see the note on ‘Concourse’ at the end of the condition descriptions. Values are based on advertised asking prices and reported sales from all parts of Australia, using data supplied by dealers, private purchasers and auction houses. Where a model is rarely offered on the Australian market, estimates are based on overseas value guides and auction results.

CONDITION 1

BODYWORK: Should be free of dents, rust or obvious repairs. Minor stone chips are permissible although major blemishes or mismatched paintwork is not. Bright work must be complete and basically undamaged.

INTERIOR: Seats should be covered in original-pattern material, free of rips or other damage. The floor covering must be complete, clean and correct material. The headlining should be clean and the dash - especially where timber or veneer used - free of cracks or discolouration.

ENGINE BAY: Should be clean with no discolouration due to water, oil or battery leaks. No engine or fuel system leaks. The correct engine or one which was optional to the model should be fitted. Original components are a must if the car is to be upgraded to 'concourse' standard.

UNDERBODY: No dents or damage to the underseal, exhaust system complete and undamaged, no oil leaks from the differential, transmission or shock absorbers. Suspension components should be in good order.

WHEELS/TYRES: Original wheels with correct hubcaps or after-market wheels in keeping with vehicle style and age should be fitted. tires need to be correct size and speed rating with at least 50% of original tread depth.

CONDITION 2

BODYWORK: No serious rust or large areas of body filler evident. Minor bubbling in non-structural areas is permissible. Paint should be good-quality but may show evidence of repairs, chips and scratches. Bright work should be generally good, although areas of dulled or scratched chrome are likely.

INTERIOR: Seats may have been recovered but should be in good general condition. If trim is original, areas of wear and broken stitching are likely. Floor-covering should be complete. Carpets and hood lining should preferably be in the original pattern. Cleaning may be required.

ENGINE BAY: Engine should be of original type although original motor is unlikely. No major fluid leaks or discolouration. Cleaning will be required.

UNDERBODY: No serious damage however scrapes and chipping likely. Minor oil leaks are common, exhaust should be complete and free from holes or burning around joints. Suspension components such as king-pins, ball joints and shock absorbers need to be in roadworthy condition.

WHEELS & tires: Wheels should be original or legal-size after-market units. tires should have legal tread depth.

CONDITION 3

BODYWORK: Moderate rust is inevitable, although chassis firewall and other structural areas should be sound. Minor body damage is common. Paint is likely to be faded with uneven color. Body filler usually found in panels but unacceptable in structural areas. Bright work should be basically complete and major components like the grille must be fitted. Re-chroming or polishing of most parts will be required.

INTERIOR: Seats need to be structurally sound but will normally need recovering. Floor coverings are likely to be damaged or missing. Door-trims should be fitted but may need replacement. Vinyl dash tops usually cracked or warped.

ENGINE BAY: Engine should run but work will be needed. Engine bay is likely to be dirty and oil-stained. Hoses and fuel lines may need replacement for vehicle to be reliable.

UNDERBODY: Will show signs of neglect and damage (dents, stone damage etc) but should be free of major rust. Chassis/structural members need to be straight. Suspension components and exhaust will usually need replacement.

WHEELS/TYRES: Wheels should be free of major damage, tires will normally need replacement.

Vehicles which are in genuine 'concourse' condition will be in completely original condition, or the subjects of a total rebuild to the highest standards. In most cases they are better than when new. Some cleaning and replacement of minor components may be required, but anything more than minor blemishes will significantly reduce the car's chances of success. Cars with the potential to achieve the coveted 'Gold' standard, (90% or better), in open concourse judging can cost 50% more than 'Condition One' examples.

Unique Cars and Parts make every effort to ensure the accuracy of the ‘Price Guides ’, but do not accept responsibility for any loss or inconvenience caused by errors or omissions. Values are subject to change due to social, political or economic circumstances within Australia or elsewhere. To determine the value of a specific vehicle, inspection by an appropriately-qualified specialist is always recommended.

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